For 70 years, Sugar n’ Spice has been delighting Cincinnati area diners with its secret-recipe Wispy Thin Pancakes, Huge Fluffy Omelettes, Signature Creative Sandwiches, Specials and more. The breakfast and lunch menu has changed little since Mort Keller established the restaurant in 1941. Today, Sugar n’ Spice prides itself on creating a fun, friendly, comfortable atmosphere, serving the same great food that has kept people coming back for generations.
Steven Frankel is the fifth owner of this landmark establishment, yet describes himself as more of a “caretaker of an historic icon than a restaurateur”.
“Sugar n’ Spice not my restaurant – it’s been here since 1941.”
On any given day you might see a new or old BMW, Ford Truck, Cadillac, and maybe even a Pinto in the parking lot. Throw in the occasional Jaguar, Honda and a Chevy and you’ll get some idea of the diversity represented in this restaurant’s patrons.
From college students to grandparents, construction workers to doctors, people from all walks of life visit Sugar N’ Spice on a daily basis. Sugar N’ Spice is about the people, the experience and varied opinions from all who attend this eclectic, diverse, delicious landmark called Sugar n’ Spice, a place to go over the decades and it’s that atmosphere that’s never changed in 70 years. Of course, the food hasn’t either.
Frankel emphasized that “Like everything else at Sugar n’ Spice it’s a team effort – all the cooks, dishwashers and wait staff are passionately involved from open to close”. For the staff at Sugar N’ Spice, it’s not a job or even an occupation, but a lifestyle. Looking at the current Sugar n’ Spice menu – which has changed very little since Mort created it in 1941 – you can catch a glimpse of Mort Keller’s quirky sense of humor. He took kitsch into the kitchen and came up with Sugar ‘n Spice classics like the “Hooked n’ Cooked” fish sandwich, the “Red n’ Yeller” grilled cheese n’ tomato, and the “Cuddlin’ Puppy” a unique combination of a tasty frankfurter, bacon, melted cheese, and relish, all on a special grilled roll. At sometime over the last 70 years, the special roll was replaced with the hotdog wrapped in bacon nested in a piece of buttered Texas toast.
Today, Frankel adds his own sense of humor with a larger “Kosher” all beef hot dog, of course, it’s still wrapped in bacon with cheese. Another item that’s been brought back onto the menu from the past is the Kosher Salami and cream cheese omelette. It is appropriately named the “Not so Kosher Omelette” featuring Hebrew National Kosher salami with cream cheese and a side of bacon.
These Keller originals and many more have withstood the test of time. So much so, that one could argue that the Sugar n’ Spice menu is as close to it comes being “carved in stone.” When Frankel recently took over the helm at Sugar n’ Spice, the best advice he got from experienced staff was simply, “don’t mess with the food.” People come here regularly with their children and grandchildren expecting to get the same thing they got decades ago,” Frankel noted. This is where your grandfather went on his first date with your grandmother parents tell their children.
That goes for pretty much everything on the menu, including the wispy thin pancakes, the huge, fluffy omelettes, even the coffee. Sugar n’ Spice features Wallingford coffee, and one of the long-time wait staff shared a story about trying to change the coffee some years ago and the backlash from the restaurant’s regulars.
“It was almost a boycott. It was a nightmare. We couldn’t get it (Wallingford coffee) back fast enough.”
That’s because people have been coming to Sugar n’ Spice for decades to enjoy menu items that Mort Keller created 70 years ago, back in 1941. In the restaurant business, “under new management” usually means change. Don’t expect a lot of changes for Sugar n’ Spice, especially on the menu items. The omelettes will still be huge and fluffy, the secret recipe pancakes will remain “wispy thin,” and restaurant regulars like Ruth and Bob will still make the trip from Fort Mitchell every day for breakfast as they have for many, many years.
There are regulars who have been coming here since their teens who are now introducing their grandchildren to Mort Keller’s creations.
Regulars like Ty who has been visiting Sugar n’ Spice 3-4 times a week for 20 years. Rumor has it that Don Love’s excellent turkey chili was created especially for Ty.
They may come for the Wispy Thin Pancakes, the Cuddlin’ Puppy, or other menu favorites, but most come for something you can’t quite put your finger on. Call it the experience of walking into a place that you know will be the same tomorrow as it was 30, 40, 50 years ago. The omelettes will always be huge and fluffy, the pancakes will still be wispy thin and Ruth and Bob will still make the trip from Fort Mitchell every day because some things aren’t meant to change.
One things for sure, Diners, Drive Ins and Dives – missed the boat, not coming to Sugar n’ Spice.
